Holiday eats day 3: Monterosso

1 May

Monterosso is the closest thing Cinque Terre has to a beach resort, although the ‘sand’ is actually little pebbles. We took it easy on Tuesday, exploring the castle in Vernazza, and taking the ferry to Monterosso instead of the train. The weather wasn’t as great on Tuesday, with the sun teasing us by coming and going in between clouds. It even rained a little, but it didn’t stop us from doing the 2 hour hike from Monterosso back to Vernazza.


There are worse things you could do in life, sitting outside with a marmellato brioche (jam croissant) and blood orange juice overlooking the sea. Sadly, can’t remember name of this place, but it’s the bar next to the church on the piazza.


– Baby tomatoes, bought from a local deli
– Focacce  with speck & mascarpone

A simple lunch is sometimes the best lunch. All you need to know is that La Smorfia has a dizzying array of pizzas to choose from, and they all look good. My focacce (I’m not overly fond of pizza) really hit the spot.

Pizzeria La Smorfia
Via Vittorio Emanuele, 73
Monterosso, Italy

Late afternoon

A strawberry & lemon granite at Il Pirata is just the ticket after a long and hot hike.

Il Pirata
Via G Guidoni, 36
Vernazza, Italy


– Trofie el pesto
– Tomatoes

When in Liguria, so everyone says, you have to eat anchovies, foccacia and pesto. A quick check with Chowhound showed that Vulnetia had one of the best pesto pastas in Cinque Terre, so dutifully I tried their trofie (apparently a local type of pasta made of flour and water) with pesto. It arrived looking like worms and didn’t look very appetising. Appearances can be deceiving, because those worms were really tasty. I was a happy birdy.

K, on the other hand, didn’t enjoy her dinner as much. She had a grilled fish which they over-grilled and it ended up being burnt. She complained about it at the end, and they were nice enough to give us a hefty discount on the bill.

Ristorante Pizzeria Vulnetia
Piazza Marconi 29,
Vernazza, Italy


I wanted something with Nutella as dessert, so trotted off to Il Pirata again to get a flaky Nutella pastry. I was lightly admonished that this was a breakfast food, but they relented and bagged my Nutella goody, and I ate it back at our B&B, leaving a trail of cocoa dust on the clean tablecloth. Oops.


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